Cartier timepieces have long been one of the most popular luxury watches for women. Generally speaking, Cartier has employed the clever strategy of making most of its watches available in various sizes so that men and women can pick which model fits them best. As a result, plenty of Cartier watch designs are considered unisex. What’s more, the majority of its watch designs— like so many products designed in France — include a mix of masculine and feminine details, which in turn appeals to a broader audience. However, Cartier has also dedicated a section of its watch catalog to pieces explicitly designed for a female audience, which has proven to be a lucrative strategy for the luxury powerhouse. From Tank and Panthere to Ballon Bleu and Pasha, here’s a comprehensive guide to Cartier women’s watch models.

Cartier Tank Watches For Women

Designed in 1917 after the tanks of World War I, there is perhaps no Cartier watch more famous than the Tank. Over the last century, Cartier has expanded the Tank watch collection with a vast assortment of iterations but always retaining the model’s fundamental blueprint. The defining feature of a Cartier Tank is a rectangular case with thick straight sides (which Cartier calls brancards, French for “stretchers”) that extend into the watch’s lugs. Other common details are part of Cartier’s overall design language, which include Roman numerals, rail-road minute tracks, blue sword-shaped hands, and a blue cabochon stone set into the winding crown.

As mentioned, there are plenty of Tank variations, each offering a distinct interpretation of the watch. For instance, there are the elongated Tank Cintree and Americaine, the minimalist Tank Solo and Tank Must, the classic Tank Louis Cartier, the beefy Tank Anglaise and Tank MC, and others. However, for women, the most famous is the Tank Française, introduced in the mid-1990s and still going strong today with a collection-wide refresh in 2023.

The Tank Française, characterized by square dials and chain-link bracelets, is available in steel, gold (yellow, rose, and white), and two-tone steel and gold. Of course, diamonds are always an option.

Cartier Panthere Watch For Women

Named after the company’s favorite feline, the Cartier Panthère watch was introduced in the mid-1980s. Its defining characteristic is its supple brick-link bracelet, mimicking the graceful movement of the panther. Other signature design details of the Cartier Panthere watch are square cases, dials, and bezel, with the latter punctuated with exposed screws. It’s similar in design to the Santos (which we’ll get to in a bit) but it’s that jewelry-like bracelet that makes all the difference.

Aside from the principal five-link configuration, Cartier does offer variations of the Panthère watch bracelet including double-wrapped versions and wide cuffs.

Cartier Tank vs. Panthere

Not only are the Tank and Panthere some of the most popular Cartier women’s watches in the market but also they can look quite similar. As such, let’s do a brief rundown on their similarities and differences.

While the Tank and Panthere have quadrilateral cases, upon further inspection we see that the former is more angular while the latter has rounder edges. The Tank can come in various proportions (long, short, arched, etc) while the Panthere’s case silhouette remains the same across iterations (except for size, of course.) The Panthere’s dials and bezels also have rounded corners, which adds a more feminine touch to the style of the watch. Furthermore, the Panthere’s case includes crown guards while the Tank’s winding crown does not include protective shoulders.

The biggest difference between the two models is the bracelet; as previously covered, Panthere watches are fitted with brick-link bracelets. On the other hand, Tank watches can be paired with leather straps or bracelets, and the bracelets typically have a three-link configuration with wide center links.

In short, the Panthere watch is dressier and more ornate while the Tank timepiece is generally more casual and classic.

Cartier Ballon Bleu Watches For Women

Compared to other Cartier models, the Ballon Bleu is a relatively new design, unveiled in the mid-2000s. The watch features a pebble-like case, complete with a convex sapphire crystal that emphasizes the bulbous shape. The watch takes its name from the blue stone-set winding crown that looks like it’s floating inside the edge of the case.

Similar to other Cartier watches for women, the Ballon Bleu is available in a slew of materials, sizes, dial colors, and movement types. Depending on the size, some versions include a date window while others don’t. Furthermore, while metal bracelets are most common, Cartier does offer some Ballon Bleu models with leather straps.

Cartier Pasha Watches For Women

Unbeknownst to some, the Cartier Pasha was designed by Gerald Genta, the same man behind icons such as the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Launched in the 1980s but according to the brand, inspired by a bespoke swim-ready watch made for the Pasha of Marrakesh in the 1930s, the Pasha watch is sporty by Cartier standards but still quite dressy compared to the other sports watches thanks in part to Vendome-style lugs and cabochon-stone-set crowns.

A few of the defining attributes of the Pasha include round cases, square minute tracks and Arabic numerals on the round dial, and a cap protecting the crown attached to the case via a small chain. Some of the most striking versions of the Pasha are those with removable grilles, inspired by the original piece from the 1930s. The modern Pasha collection offers

Cartier Santos Watches for Women

The Cartier Santos is one of the brand’s most historically important pieces, initially designed in 1904 for aviator Alberto-Santos Dumont to be able to tell the time while keeping his hands on the steering instruments during his pioneering flights (much more practical than a pocket watch). It was then redesigned in the late 1970s for the glitzy era and it remains a mainstay of Cartier’s catalog, featuring a rounded square case, rounded square bezel with exposed screws, and more often than not, metal bracelets also punctuated with metal screws.

Although the Santos is marketed more toward men in today’s market, generally positioned as Cartier’s GADA watch, there are indeed a few Santos models — both vintage and modern — that are designed specifically for ladies. For instance, there are smaller versions of both the sportier Santos de Cartier watches with metal bracelets and the dressier Santos-Dumont watches paired with leather straps.

Cartier Ronde and Rotonde Watches For Women

The Ronde and Rotonde watches are Cartier’s classically round cases. However, they differ in that the Ronde collection usually offers quite simple models whereas the Rotonde typically features complications or interesting watchmaking traditions.

For instance, the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour features a distinct hour and minute display that appears as if they’re floating in mid-air and operating without a movement. Cartier has been making mystery clocks and watches for well over a century; the secret is that the hands are attached to two crystal disks and the hidden movement moves the disks, which in turn move the hands. In true Cartier fashion, there are plenty of high-jewelry versions of the Rotonde availble, decked out in diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and other precious gems.

Other Cartier Watches for Women

In addition to the above best-known Cartier watches for women, the brand has made plenty of other ladies’ timepieces over the decades, which we’ll briefly cover here.

Cartier Tortue

Introduced in 1912 and named after the French word for turtle, the Cartier Tortue’s defining feature is its turtle shell-shaped case.

Cartier Baignoire

Also designed in 1912, the Baignoire is named after the French word for bathtub given its oval-shaped case.

Cartier Crash

For a long time, it was believed that the Crash watch’s amorphic design was the result of a fiery car crash that melted a client’s Cartier watch. That was the story Cartier told. However, according to Francesca Cartier Brickell, it was actually her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier who designed the watch in 1967. The Cartier Crash has become one of the most in-demand watches in today’s market —for men and women.

High Jewelry Watches

Given Cartier’s history as one of the world’s greatest jewelers, it should come as no surprise that the Maison makes some incredible jewelry watches. From diamond-encrusted shaped watches to bejeweled animal motifs to sparkling classic numbers, Cartier’s catalog is replete with women’s high jewelry watches.

Cartier Privé & CPCP

Cartier launched an ultra-exclusive collection dubbed the Cartier Privé Collection Paris, also known as CPCP, in 1998. This collection housed re-issues of distinctive pieces from Cartier’s archives, made in limited runs. The modern version of the CPCP line is simply called Cartier Privé and like its predecessor, it’s home to historically important pieces geared towards serious Cartier collections.

Cartier’s Women’s Watches

As illustrated by the pieces outlined here, it’s clear that Cartier is committed to making beautiful watches for women —which is why the company has been a leader in this field for decades. Other brands could learn a thing or two from Cartier by prioritizing their women’s watch lineup with interesting pieces rather than just “shrinking and pinking” already-existing men’s watches. They may find success in an underserved market if they actually put in the type of effort Cartier does.

More about Cartier Watches
The Most Expensive Cartier Watches
The Best Entry Level Cartier Watches
Is Cartier Leading the Return of Small Watches for Men?

When Rolex announced their intended acquisition of legendary international retail chain Bucherer in 2023, the watch industry was abuzz with speculation about how it would affect the world of luxury watch retailing. What has been talked about much less, however, is the fact that this acquisition also includes a world-class movement maker capable of producing minute repeaters, tourbillons and perpetual calendars. The in-house movement manufacturer for the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand was once a renowned standalone third-party maker of high complications known as Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) located in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland. And now, if the Swiss regulators approve Rolex’s Bucherer acquisition, they will belong to Rolex.

Who is Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées?

In 1989, Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées was founded by three all-stars of today’s luxury watch world–François-Paul Journe (of F.P. Journe), Vianney Halter, and Denis Flageollet (of De Bethune). THA supplied movements to high-end Swiss brands, and many regarded them as one of the few movement-for-hire firms remotely on par with Renaud et Papi. The top of the luxury watch industry is a small world.

The Bucherer Acquisition

Letting larger brands take the “glory” of your finest works often grows tiresome for elite watchmakers, so it’s not surprising that all three founders were long gone by the time Bucherer bought THA in 2007. Bucherer changed the name to “Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA” and decided to keep all their movements for its own Carl F. Bucherer brand from then on. Their first important horological innovation under that name came the very next year. News of Rolex’s Bucherer acquisition came in 2023. Presumably, though, the integration of the companies will take years–if the deal is approved by Switzerland at all, that is.

Most Notable Complications

These are the most notable horological feats that Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA is known for:

• Peripheral Rotor – Although Carl F. Bucherer Technologies didn’t invent peripheral rotors, they were the first to serially produce them in 2008, and they’re leaders in that area. Peripheral winding rotors, unlike typical automatic winding rotors, are like rings around the movement. This allows for a better view of the movement (assuming the watch has an exhibition caseback) and a slimmer case height.
• Floating Tourbillon – Although lots of brands make flying tourbillons, CFB’s “floating tourbillon” is supported peripherally by three ceramic ball bearings (the same concept behind their peripheral rotors) rather than being cantilevered on one side. This feature debuted in 2018.
• Minute Repeater – The minute repeater is a classic complication, but it’s one of the most difficult to make. Carl F. Bucherer Technologies is on a short list of houses that actually make their own minute repeater movements. A “Triple Peripheral” has a floating tourbillon, peripheral rotor and peripherally mounted minute repeater regulator.
• Perpetual Calendar – CFB used to add Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar modules to ETA base movements, but since 2023 they’ve been making their own manufacture perpetual calendars.
• Flyback Chronograph – Although flyback chronographs are nowhere near as impressive as minute repeaters, it’s a neat complication that Rolex has never made.

What Will Rolex Do With Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA?

Rolex is a hard company to predict. It’s likely that Rolex will do absolutely nothing different with Carl F. Bucherer Technologies and let them continue to put their world-class high complications in Carl F. Bucherer watches. After all, Rolex makes well over a million watches per year and has about 1,300 authorized dealers to distribute them to–selling a couple hundred minute repeater watches wouldn’t really change their financial fate.

But, based on Rolex’s 2024 releases they seem to be making a concerted effort to move upmarket, and they already do make a handful of ultra-low-volume off-catalog models each year. If a Rolex Carl F. Bucherer collab resulted in an off-catalog 1908 minute repeater, would that be so wrong? Carl F. Bucherer Technologies is among the world’s top manufacturers of complicated movements, but the Carl F. Bucherer brand itself isn’t particularly strong. Just consider, what did Keanu Reeves gift his stunt crew for helping him make the John Wick movies, which were all prominently sponsored by Carl F. Bucherer? Rolexes, of course.

More on Rolex:
A Complete Guide to Purple Rolex Dials
Here’s Every Model Rolex Discontinued in 2024
What is the Price of a Rolex Submariner in 2024?
Rolex Plans to Improve Vintage Servicing Capability by 2026
Rolex 16710 GMT-Master II Collector’s Guide

The Breitling Emergency, the first wristwatch to feature a built-in personal distress beacon, was introduced in 1995. Designed with adventurers (especially pilots) in mind, its FM transmitter can broadcast on the 121.5 MHz band when its emergency antenna is unscrewed (and later models can do 406 MHz). You’d face some big fines and unhappy authorities if you activated it in a non-emergency situation, but so far nobody has ever apparently been dumb enough to do that. More than 20 Emergency wearers have been successfully rescued, though! Here’s our overview of everything you need to know about the Breitling Emergency.

Breitling sold 40,000 original Emergency models according to Forbes, and the Emergency 2 was an even greater engineering feat. Ultimately, though, the 51mm diameter and high price of the Emergency 2 greatly limited its sales, and the future of the Emergency line now seems uncertain. But before we get into that, let’s start with how the distress beacon works.

How it Works

If you unscrew the big Frankenstein-neckbolt screw on the Emergency, an antenna comes out. The emergency transmitter will immediately start broadcasting, which is why you should never play around with it in a non-emergency situation (but don’t stress too much–it’s far too tight to accidentally unscrew). In an emergency, make sure the antenna is fully extended and set the crown up for best results.

The 121.5 MHz band (along with 243 MHz, its military-only equivalent) is somewhat of a “legacy” band now but it’s still used by ships, planes and ground-based search and rescue teams. If they detect a distress signal, rescue teams can start sweeping the (large) search radius for you. Cospas-Sarsat, a joint effort between Canada, France, the US and Russia to globally monitor distress signals by satellite, also used to monitor the 121.5 MHz and 243 MHz bands, but they stopped doing so in 2009. Breitling did make a few 243 MHz Emergencies but they were, naturally, only available to the military.

What Cospas-Sarsat monitors now is 406 MHz. That’s the frequency the Breitling Emergency 2 (which hit US shelves in 2015) broadcasts on, in addition to the old 121.5 MHz band. Cospas-Sarsat’s move to the 406 MHz digital frequency in 2009 was in line with recommendations from various regulators worldwide, due to issues with the 121.5 MHz band like poor accuracy and frequent false alerts.

406 MHz digital distress signals contain information on the type of emergency, the country and identification code of the beacon, and other data to assist search and rescue operations; and a lower-powered homing signal on 121.5 MHz to guide search and rescue teams to the aircraft once they arrive in the general area. 121.5 MHz ELTs transmit an analog signal on 121.5 MHz containing only an audio alert, intended to serve both as a distress signal and a homing signal.

FCC

A 2014 UK test report of the Breitling Emergency 2 indicates that its distress signal can be activated for over 18 continuous hours if fully charged. When Cospas-Sarsat detects a distress signal on the 406 MHz band, they coordinate with local officials to start a search. The original Emergency could broadcast for closer to 48 hours on the 121.5 MHz frequency only, but that’s far less energy-intensive. If you open up a Breitling Emergency 2, you’ll see the size of the beacon’s circuit board and battery both absolutely dwarf those of the actual timekeeping unit. Now let’s go over a timeline of the three main “generations” of Breitling Emergency models: the original 43mm version, the 45mm Emergency Mission, and the 51mm Emergency 2.

Breitling Emergency (1995-2010)

The first Breitling Emergency, ref. E56021, debuted in 1995. In Breitling nomenclature, “E” signifies that the watch is titanium. With a 43mm diameter and a large bulky emergency antenna screw, it made sense to choose a lightweight material. Some miniscule tweaks (like “MHZ” on the dial becoming “MHz”) resulted in the E56121.1. E56321 models followed, which were basically unchanged except their movements got chronometer certified (although the dials do not say “chronometer”). Well, oddly, the iced-out white gold equivalent (J56321) does say “Chronometre Emergency” but those are quite rare. Yellow gold models (beginning with “K”) are also rare, but less so.

These Caliber 56-powered Breitling Emergency watches are very capable and accurate, but the movements were upgraded to SuperQuartz Caliber 76 movements in 2002, resulting in the E76321 (and K76321 and J76321). The Breitling Emergency 1 would continue to be made until 2010. Its digital displays can act as both a perpetual calendar and a stopwatch.

Breitling Emergency Mission (2003-2010)

In 2003, Breitling tried something slightly different with the Breitling Emergency Mission. It didn’t replace the regular Emergency, which resembles an Aerospace model. The Breitling Emergency Mission, which looks more like a Chronomat or Avenger, has no digital displays. It has an analog chronograph and date display, but it doesn’t have a mechanical movement–it’s still a SuperQuartz. Its slightly increased size (45mm) and larger crown make the huge emergency antenna screw look a bit less out-of-place.

Interestingly, the Breitling Emergency Mission was available in steel (A73321 and later A73322) or two-tone (B73321 and later B73322), but not titanium or solid gold. Also, the Breitling Emergency Mission dials are all either black, white, silver or navy–no bright colors like orange or yellow. So Breitling was clearly trying to visually differentiate the Emergency Mission from the original Emergency. The second generation of Mission (the -22 model designation) came out in 2007 and is identifiable for having silver-tone hour markers instead of gold. The Emergency Mission was discontinued in 2010 at the same time as the standard Emergency.

Breitling Emergency 2 (2013+)

The Breitling Emergency 2 was in development for years, so rumors of its existence were around long before its Baselworld 2013 debut. But many watch enthusiasts were skeptical that it was even possible to make a watch-sized 406 MHz personal locator beacon (PLB). Typically they’re the size of a walkie talkie.

So, although it’s easy to instinctively scoff at the size–51mm wide and over 21mm thick!–it’s actually a massive feat that Breitling made it that small to begin with. They worked with a startup called Prollion, founded in 2009, to help make a specialized battery just for them.

There are lots of federal regulations about PLB’s, so almost any seasoned Breitling salesperson will have stories of the tedious training and paperwork involved in selling the Emergency 2. Once you fill out the paperwork correctly, though, your beacon’s signal will be identifiable to you. The old Breitling Emergencies couldn’t do that.

To me, the Emergency 2 is like Breitling’s Rolex Deepsea Challenge watch–relentlessly engineered to serve a specific purpose that most watch collectors will never come close to needing. It’s important to have “look-what-we-can-do” moments in the world of luxury watch marketing. And for those few who do need it, it can (and has) saved their lives. Due to the 51mm size and a retail price over $16,000, though, not very many Emergency 2 models have been sold to normie watch collectors like me.

Breitling Emergency Specs

Model	Emergency	Emergency Mission	Emergency 2
References	E56021, E56121.1, E56321, E76321 K56321, K76321 J56321, J76321	A73321, A73322 B73321, B73322	E76325 V76325
Case Material	Titanium (E), yellow gold (K), or diamond-set white gold (J)	Steel (A) or two-tone (B)	Titanium (E) or DLC-Coated Titanium (V)
Case Size	Diameter: 43mm Thickness: 16mm Lug-to-lug: 50mm	Diameter: 45mm Thickness: 19mm Lug-to-lug: 57mm	Diameter: 51mm Thickness: 21.6mm Lug-to-lug: 63mm
Water Resistance	30m	100m	50m
Movement	Caliber 56 (Quartz), Caliber 76 (SuperQuartz)	Caliber 73 (SuperQuartz)	Caliber 76 (SuperQuartz)
Functions	Hours, minutes, digital perpetual calendar, chronograph, alarm, personal distress beacon	Hours, minutes, chronograph, date, personal distress beacon	Hours, minutes, digital perpetual calendar, chronograph, alarm, dual-band personal distress beacon
Market Price (Apr. 2024)	~$4,250	~$4,250	~$9,000

What’s a Breitling Co-Pilot?

The story of the Breitling Emergency isn’t complete if I don’t mention the Co-Pilot. Breitling Co-Pilots have a niche but loyal fan base. They’re the optional “bonus watch” on the first link of the bracelet on some models. There are simple analog versions, with either a 12-hour scale or a 24-hour scale, as well as digital models that can act as a stopwatch. Co-Pilots generally sell for more than $1,000 alone–in some cases, a lot more.

A Note About Battery Changes

Breitling AD’s won’t even change the battery on an Emergency watch. They say a factory service is necessary for every battery change, which costs over $1,000 for an Emergency 2. Yikes. That commitment is well worth it for an avid hiker or pilot who uses it regularly as a piece of survival equipment, but tough to justify as a part of a typical watch nerd’s collection.

Watchuseek user stockae92 made a helpful thread on how to change your own battery on a first-generation Breitling Emergency, and Ivan Kirov made a video of a DIY Breitling Emergency 2 battery change. One of the cool features of the Emergency 2 is that it has a rechargeable battery, and it comes with a wireless charging stand.

But that’s just the beacon’s battery. So, before you go fly your Cessna to Alaska, you should fully charge your Emergency 2 so you’ll get the full 18+ hours of digital distress signaling if you need it. The battery for the watch itself still needs regular replacing (and the beacon battery will too, eventually) no matter how often you charge the beacon battery.

Is the Breitling Emergency Discontinued?

As of May 2024, the Breitling Emergency 2 is still on Breitling’s website, available for sale in four configurations with a starting MSRP of $16,200. Black is the only remaining dial option (yellow, orange, and mother-of-pearl are all gone). The original Breitling Emergency models were discontinued long ago (2010). Although the Emergency 2 still has the old winged B logo that Breitling started phasing out in 2018, that doesn’t mean they’ve been sitting around for years. Breitling seems to be keeping the winged B around for “Professional” models like the Emergency and Endurance.

Although the Emergency 2 represented a herculean engineering feat over a decade ago, the enthusiasm for it just isn’t there. Perhaps advancements in battery technology could enable Breitling to make an Emergency 3 under 45mm in diameter someday. Until then, I think most watch nerds will pay more attention to the original Breitling Emergency and Breitling Emergency Mission models. But if you’re a pilot or hardcore hiker and you can afford the Breitling Emergency 2, why not? Nobody can see that 51mm watch in your Cessna cockpit anyway.

More on Breitling:
The Best Entry-Level Breitling Watches
Who is Universal Genève and Why Did Breitling Buy Them?
History of Breitling
The Best Breitling Watch

Grand Seiko has been on a heater in the past decade. They’ve risen from an obscure luxury brand known mostly to hardcore enthusiasts, to a household name among even casual fans of luxury watches–and it’s well-deserved. One narrative has been rather persistent recently, though–that Grand Seiko bracelets are subpar. Any online discussion of Grand Seiko is likely to have at least one comment along the lines of “Yeah their watches look great; it’s just a shame Grand Seiko bracelets are so terrible!” In my opinion this is an absolute myth. I’ll explain why.

Finishing

Even most naysayers of Grand Seiko bracelets will agree that their finishing is outstanding. Very high-quality brushing, with polished accents in some cases. Solid all-around.

The machined clasps look and feel excellent. I have a 15-year-old Grand Seiko with a clasp that still “clicks” shut as crisply as newer ones. These are definitely durable bracelets. So why do they get hated on so much?

Lack of Quick-Adjust

Well, it’s true that Grand Seiko bracelets do not have any sort of micro-adjust function (aside from the diver’s extensions on their dive watches, if you count that). Clasps with modern quick-adjust functionality have gained popularity very rapidly, to the point that collectors have started to expect them. But there’s always a tradeoff–Grand Seiko clasps would surely have to be larger (and likely less comfortable) to accommodate such a mechanism. Plus, that’s just more parts that can go wrong–Grand Seikos are engineered with the long haul in mind.

2/3-Links

Most people can get a Grand Seiko to fit well if they have the correct number of links, and it may help to add or remove a half-link. Cleverly, Grand Seiko’s “half-link” is actually a “2/3-length link.” It’s smart because by choosing to use one, two, or none of these smaller links, you can actually be precise to within 1/3 the length of a regular link. Want it 1/3-link longer? Replace a 2/3-link with a full link, and so forth.

If you need more links for your GS, you can always hit up Seiko Service at 1-800-722-4452. They’re not stingy with their parts like Rolex is; you should be able to get any links you need mailed to your door no problem.

Grand Seiko Bracelets are Not Saggy

GS’s can pass the “bracelet sag test” with flying colors. Although some of their bracelets aren’t as tight as, say, a Rolex Oyster bracelet, they’re not meant to be. Grand Seiko also makes an Oyster-style bracelet and when you hold it straight out to the side, you can see how rock solid it is:

Grand Seiko Bracelets: In Conclusion

All in all, although Grand Seiko doesn’t make the most original bracelet designs (they basically copy both the Rolex Oyster and the Omega Bullet), they are made very well. Contrary to some popular narratives you may see online, I think Grand Seiko bracelets feel right at home on a $6,000+ watch. Rolex bracelets are better, sure, but I can’t think of many other brands that have a clearcut advantage in the bracelet department.

A quick-adjust clasp would be a cool feature, but the old-fashioned one they use now is well-made, reliable, and small (and thus comfortable). I don’t need quick-adjust clasps on every bracelet I own. If you do, though, you can always skip the bracelet entirely and consider one of the many excellent Grand Seikos on leather straps.

More on Grand Seiko:
Grand Seiko 2024 Releases
Opinion: Grand Seiko’s Marketing Department Needs to Get it Together

The tachymeter bezel has become ubiquitous on sports chronographs, and we have the Omega Speedmaster to thank for that. It looks cool, but its real-life utility is, well, limited. How often are we timing how long it takes for something to happen exactly once, and then quickly extrapolating the corresponding hourly rate? Maybe you’d like a more practical Omega Speedmaster bezel, like one with a pulsometer scale–or one that allows you to tell how far away lightning is. Omega offered all of these on old Speedmasters, as well as a bezel simply marked in 1/100ths. In this article we’ll take a quick look at all five Omega Speedmaster bezel scale options.

Omega stopped offering these bezels on new watches long, long ago–145.022 was the final Speedy reference to have these options–but service parts can be found online. This Omega Forums thread has some good pics showing how to spot the difference between original alternative Speedmaster bezels and service replacement ones. Obviously originals are worth more, but even service replacement versions of these bezels can sell for $1,000 apiece. Let’s take a look at each Omega Speedmaster bezel type.

Tachymeter Bezel

Tachymeter bezels have been standard for the Omega Speedmaster since its inception. To use a tachymeter, you start the chronograph when an event begins (like peeling a banana) and stop it when something is complete (like you’re done eating the banana). If it took you just over 41 seconds to eat that banana, for instance, the chronograph seconds hand will clearly indicate that you’re eating at a rate of 87 bananas per hour, as you can see below:

The “unit” can be anything. The tachymeter bezel only works for events that take a minute or less, though. For things that take longer you’d need a “snail” tachymeter scale on the dial, like the latest Tudor Pro Cycling watch has.

What is a Dot Over Ninety Bezel?

A “dot over 90 bezel,” sometimes just called a “DON bezel” by watch geeks, is what it sounds like. It’s a tachymeter bezel for a Speedmaster with a dot over the 90. The dot moved “next to the 90” sometime around 1969, and if your vintage Speedmaster needs a replacement bezel, that’s what it will get. So the “dot over 90” generally signifies a Speedmaster from the 1960’s or earlier with an original bezel.

Honestly, there’s nothing wrong with the dot being next to the 90; that looks perfectly fine too. It’s just something to be aware of if you’re venturing into the world of high-end vintage Omega Speedmasters. My old Speedy doesn’t have the DON bezel, but that’s fine because I didn’t pay DON prices for it.

Telemeter Bezel

Telemeter scales on watches have a rather horrific history: they first got popular during World War 1 when soldiers wanted to calculate how far away mortar fire was. Telemeters work by exploiting the delta between the speeds of light and sound. Activate the chronograph when you see something (like a flash of mortar fire or lightning); stop the chronograph when you hear its corresponding sound. The chronograph seconds hand will be indicating how far away the flash was. Pretty neat! But unlike on a tachymeter, the units are predefined, so Omega needed to make two versions of the telemeter bezel–one measured in miles and one measured in kilometers.

Miles

The 105.012 shown above has a telemeter bezel measured in miles. This is a service replacement part; original telemeter bezels have a slightly thinner typeface. Funnily enough, for the “miles” versions, they spell “telemeter” the American way.

Kilometers

Meanwhile, telemeter bezels marked in kilometers are spelled “telemetre” instead:

Pulsometer Bezel

Pulsometer scales are sometimes found on watch dials, and less often they can be seen on bezels, too. To use it, just start the chronograph when you start counting someone’s heartbeat, and stop it when you’ve heard 15 beats. The chrono hand will point to the heartrate. Simple.

It’s worth noting that original Omega Speedmaster pulse bezels have hash marks for each individual number from 40-80, but later replacements don’t.

Decimal Bezel

You may be wondering why a bezel would simply be marked in 1/100ths, because, well, who’s measuring 1/100ths of a minute? There are actually some perfectly valid reasons to do so. When planning operational logistics, for instance, it’s much easier to do math with numbers like “3.80 minutes” than “3 minutes and 48 seconds.” But the truly important thing, obviously, is that the decimal bezel looks really cool.

Omega Speedmaster Bezel Alternatives: Any Chance of a Comeback?

Personally I think it would be awesome if these alternative Omega Speedmaster bezels were offered again, but I won’t get my hopes up. I get that Omega probably doesn’t want to mess with the “signature look” of their tachymeter bezel, but the Rolex Daytona (and countless other watches) have already been copying that for over half of a century at this point. A decimal bezel would look pretty sweet on Daniel Craig’s white Speedmaster. What’s your favorite Omega Speedmaster bezel?

More on the Omega Speedmaster:
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The Patek Nautilus comes with baggage. Given that the Nautilus is one of the most well-known sports watches on the market with tremendous resale value, it’s a piece that’s equally loved and disliked. It can be a target for theft, jealousy, and side-eyes. But it’s also beloved, collectible, and the source of much online fanboying. Now, to be clear, the stainless steel Nautilus ref. 7118/1A which I had a chance to wear for a week for a hands-on review is the ladies’ version; therefore, while it shares the same fundamental design language of the men’s Nautilus, it does have several differentiating details. As a result, it’s not as high-profile or valuable as its larger ref. 5711/A counterpart. But still, wearing the baby sister Nautilus proved intimidating at first.

I found myself keeping my right arm as close to me as possible for fear of hurting it, or tugging my sleeve over it when I was out and about to cover it. However, it didn’t take long to forget that I was wearing it and just went about my normal day-to-day stuff. That’s the thing about hyped watches — they come on strong because of all the noise, but soon you realize that they’re just like any other watch. Plus, non-watch folk hardly ever notice them. As funny as it sounds given its hefty price tag, the Patek 7118 is a fantastic daily watch that’s easy to wear and even easier to fall in love with.

First Impressions

My first impression after opening the box was, “Wow, she’s so pretty.” The instantly recognizable porthole-shaped case paired with the sleek steel integrated bracelet and silver dial results in a super appealing package. After having a few links removed (it’s a long bracelet and for context, my wrist is around 6.25″) I was able to wear it and give it a test run.

I’ve heard a few people comment that they weren’t impressed when they finally put a Nautilus on; it left them a little disappointed. I did not have this experience.

The Patek Philippe 7118 looked and felt fantastic the minute I put it on. The case, which measures 35.2mm across and 8.62mm thick is supremely comfortable and sits nice and flat on my wrist. It’s also surprisingly light and melts away like you’re not wearing a watch. I’m sensitive to the bulk and weight of watches — particularly when working. More often than not, I’ll remove the watch I’m wearing for the day and place it next to my computer when typing away. The Lady’s Nautilus 7118, on the other hand, never bothered me, and I was happy to keep it on all day long.

The shape of the case and slightly arched lugs molded well around my wrist and the slimness of the watch is impressive. The Nautilus bracelet, which is no doubt one of the most famous watch bracelets ever made, is a joy to wear. It’s supple and drapes perfectly where it needs to. Gerald Genta understood the importance of the bracelet to both the watch-wearing experience and the overall style of the piece.

The Design Details

Patek offers the automatic Ladies’ Nautilus, which debuted in 2015, in a few flavors including varying case metals, diamond-set options, and a few dial colors. This particular version is the 7118-1A-010 with a steel case and bracelet, and a silvery opaline dial.

Aside from case size, one major design detail that sets the women’s Nautilus 7118 apart from the men’s 5711 is the dial design. The women’s versions include wave-patterned dials, and depending on the light, the waves can look quite dramatic and dark or subtle and light.

In addition to the wave motif, the dials include different-shaped hour markers and are home to a 12 at the top and a date window at 6 o’clock. The hands are fancier than the men’s variants, replacing straight batons with tapered Alpha-style hands. I like this Nautilus dial design, it goes a long way in dressing up the otherwise sporty steel watch. The lumed hands and indices aren’t especially strong in low-light, but they’re bright enough to tell the time.

As is customary with Nautilus watches, the Patek 7118 includes a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, which is especially noticeable on the rounded octagonal bezel, as well as the bracelet. Opening and closing the bracelet is a simple affair; twin triggers on the clasp open and close it, revealing a foldover clasp for added security.

Inside the case and visible from the sapphire caseback is the Caliber 324 S C movement that powers the watch. The movement (which was the same one the 5711 relied on until it was replaced by the new-gen Caliber 26-330 SC in 2019) has 35 to 45 hours of power reserve and operates at 28,800 beats per hour.

The Ladies’ Nautilus 7118 debuted with a stated water resistance of 60 meters, half that of the men’s versions. Since its release, though, Patek has retroactively rated all of their sports watches to 30 meters across the board. But it’s a real 30 meters, meaning you can actually dive to a depth of 30 meters with it. Some people think you need a 50-meter depth rating just to swim with a watch but that certainly doesn’t apply to Patek Philippe. If I had to nitpick this watch, I would want a longer power reserve, but that’s not a make-it-or-break-it issue.

The Ladies’ Nautilus 7118 Goes to a Watch Event

During my week with the Patek 7118/1A, I had a watch collector’s event to attend. Naturally, this is the watch I wore to the gathering because I wanted to see how a room of watch nerds would react to it. More than a few people noticed and commented on it (all positive naturally because who would say something negative to your face about a watch you’re wearing) and plenty of ladies wanted to try it on.

The ladies that tried it on had similar reactions to mine; instant love. There were also a few men who said they preferred the proportions of this version over the bigger 5711. One attendee said he found the more ornate wavey dial of the 7118 refreshing and “not as flat and uninspiring” as the classic blue 5711.

Final Thoughts

I found myself staring at my wrist more than usual when I was wearing the Nautilus. Even my 12-year-old remarked that I was “kinda obsessed with the watch.”

Yes, it’s a simple piece that’s fashioned in steel and only includes the time and date on its not-in-your-face silver dial. Yet, there’s something about its simplicity that’s endlessly charming. There’s nothing I’d change about the watch’s design and of all the automatic ladies’ Nautilus variants available, this steel and white dial version has become my favorite. I thought it would be the blue one but I’ve come to realize that the silver one is more versatile.

I had a slight tinge of regret borrowing this watch for a review because I inevitably had to give it back. I’ve thought a lot about this watch since then and conjured up (non-realistic) ways in my head about how I could potentially buy one in the future. At prices like these ($32,170 at retail and more than $48,000 pre-owned) that’s never going to happen. But one can dream.

I used to work for a Patek AD so maybe I’m biased and like so many, have fallen under the prestigious brand’s spell. Would I be as enamored if it didn’t say “Patek Philippe” on the dial? I’d like to think that I would because I’m attracted to the design and quality and not the name that’s attached to it.

At the watch event, a lady came up to me and said she had the rose gold and diamond version but was struck by how cool the one I was wearing was. I think she decided that night to add the reference 7118-1A-010 to her collection. Lucky her.

Ladies Nautilus Patek 7118 Specs

Model	Nautilus “Ladies Automatic”
Reference	7118/1A-010
Case	Stainless steel 35.2mm diameter 8.62mm thick
Bezel	Rounded octagon Stainless steel
Dial	Silvery opaline dial, wave pattern White gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating.
Bracelet	Stainless steel integrated Nautilus bracelet
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds Date
Movement	Caliber 26‑330 S C Automatic winding 35 – 45 hours power reserve
Water Resistance	60 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP)	$32,170
2024 Secondary Market Price	$48,500 to $78,450

More About Patek Nautilus Watches:
What is the Price of a Patek Philippe Nautilus in 2024?
Why is The Patek Philippe Nautilus So Expensive?
Patek Philippe Introduces a New Nautilus 5990/1A
Patek Philippe Introduces the Gem-Set Nautilus Joaillerie 7118/1300R

Ladies Nautilus Patek 7118 Image Gallery

If you visit Tudor’s website, you’ll see lots of their nice new releases along with a proud historical timeline featuring pictures of many of their popular vintage watches. Notably though, the Tudor Hydronaut and its ilk are nowhere to be found. It’s as if 1998-2009 never happened. Most Tudor collectors largely ignore that time period, too. That was when Tudor was first distancing itself from the Rolex lineup. Perhaps they were trying a bit too hard to seem hip and different, because they released some watches with…pretty aggressive aesthetics. Their undeniably dated look is somewhat charming now, though. Here’s our guide to the Tudor Hydronaut, Iconaut, and all the other forgotten ‘Nauts from Tudor’s blocky early-2000’s era.

All Tudors of this time period use ETA movements. Also, note that Tudor pulled out of the North American and UK markets entirely sometime around 2004. They didn’t return to the US until 2013, one year after the triumphant release of the Tudor Black Bay that ushered in Tudor’s next chapter. The “Hydronaut Era,” however, had started back when the Hydronaut replaced the beloved Tudor Submariner.

Tudor Hydronaut

With few exceptions–like serti dials, the Rolex Hulk, and salmon Tudor Submariners–all Submariner dials are either black or blue. But right out of the gate, the Tudor Hydronaut established itself as a more colorful/contemporary dive watch lineup when it debuted in 1998. Orange, yellow, blue mother-of-pearl, and even carbon fiber dials were offered.

I don’t know if there’s a name for the wacky geometric hands that the Hydronaut uses. They’re quirky, but highly legible. The bezel features a contemporary typeface and blocky markings from 0-15 minutes. Unlike the Submariner, the Hydronaut was available with a rubber strap. Oyster bracelets were never offered on the Hydronaut, presumably because Rolex was focused on differentiating the Tudor and Rolex brands, so the only bracelet option was the five-link Tudor Prince Bracelet.

The Tudor Submariner was made in five sizes over the years (Lady, Mini, midsize, full-size, plus a rare 31mm reference) but the Hydronaut came in only three: 28mm, 36mm, and 40mm. The largest ones are the most popular. Because Tudor was sponsoring Tiger Woods from 1997-2003, they decided to write “Tiger” seemingly at random on some (but not all) Hydronaut dials. And the very first ones actually just say Tiger and not Hydronaut. The Tudor Hydronaut, which was the last Tudor to get Rolex’s famous date cyclops, was replaced by the Black Bay in 2012.

Tudor Hydronaut Specs

Model Name	Hydronaut	Hydronaut (Midsize)	Hydronaut Lady
Reference Number(s)	89190, 89193	85190, 85193	99090
Year Debuted-Discontinued	1998-2012	1998-2012	1998-2012
Case Material	Stainless Steel or Two-Tone	Stainless Steel or Two-Tone	Stainless Steel
Case Diameter	40mm	36mm	28mm
Water Resistance	200m	200m	200m
Movement Caliber	ETA 2824-2	ETA 2824-2	ETA
Power Reserve	38 hours	38 hours	38 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date	Hours, minutes, seconds, date	Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Bracelet/Strap Options	Bracelet or Rubber	Bracelet or Rubber	Bracelet or Rubber
Market Value (May 2024)	$1,900	$1,500	$1,350

More on Tudor:
On The Wrist: Vintage Tudor Submariner 75090 Review
Black Bay Chrono Pink is Officially a Tudor Production Model
Guide To The Best Tudor Watch Models
Everything You Need to Know About Tudor Military Watches
How to Sell a Tudor Watch

Tudor Hydronaut II

The Hydronaut II came out sometime around 2006, and it was basically just a Tudor Sport ref. 20010 with a rotating bezel. The earliest examples (ref. 20020 and the two-tone version, ref. 20023) don’t actually say Hydronaut II on the dial; they have a water resistance of “only” 150m and, surprisingly, a bidirectional bezel.

The following Hydronaut II models (ref. 20030 and 20040) were given 200m depth ratings along with unidirectional bezels like you would expect on a proper dive watch. The two-tone option was dropped, and a 31mm ladies’ size was added. Tudor also gave the Hydronaut II bezels a bit of a “roulette wheel” look by adding black squares behind the numbers.

Ref. 20060 debuted in 2010 with some aesthetic tweaks like a more Seiko SKX-like bezel insert, hands similar to those on the first Hydronaut, and huge “Hydronaut II” text on the dial. Although the crown guard, lugs, and bezel of the Hydronaut II are pretty aggressive, it’s otherwise a fairly straightforward dive watch. Unlike some of the watches we’re showing you here, there isn’t too much craziness going on with the dials (although the checkerboard carbon fiber dial option is cool). Note that the Hydronaut II didn’t replace the Hydronaut; they were both made concurrently until the Black Bay replaced them in 2012.

Tudor Hydronaut II Specs

Model Name	“Pre”-Hydronaut II (Mark 1)	Hydronaut II (Mark 2)	Hydronaut II (Mark 3)	Hydronaut II Lady
Reference Number(s)	20020, 20023	20030, 20040	20060	24030, 24040
Years Produced	2006-2007	2007-2012	2010-2012	2007-2012
Case Material	Stainless steel or two-tone	Stainless steel	Stainless steel	Stainless steel
Case Size	Diameter: 41mm Thickness: 10.5mm Lug-to-lug: 46.6mm	Diameter: 41mm Thickness: 10.7mm Lug-to-lug: 46.6mm	Diameter: 41mm Thickness: 10.7mm Lug-to-lug: 46.6mm	Diameter: 31mm
Water Resistance	150m	200m	200m	200m
Movement Caliber	ETA 2824-2	ETA 2824-2	ETA 2824-2	ETA
Power Reserve	38 hours	38 hours	38 hours	38 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date	Hours, minutes, seconds, date	Hours, minutes, seconds, date	Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Bracelet/Strap Options	Steel bracelet (with gold center link on TT version) or rubber strap	Steel bracelet or rubber strap	Steel bracelet or rubber strap	Steel bracelet or rubber strap
Market Value (May 2024)	$2,200	$2,300	$2,200	$1,300

Tudor Hydronaut II Chronograph

The Hydronaut II chronograph, ref. 20360N, is the rarest of all the Tudor ‘Naut models. It was only made from about 2009-2012, but in that short time it overlapped with no less than six other Tudor chronograph lines: Fastrider, Grantour Flyback Chrono, Tudor Heritage Chrono, Archeo Chronograph, Iconaut, and Sport Chrono. I’m really not sure why Tudor was making so many different chronograph references back then.

In any case, the Hydronaut II chrono looks a lot like the final regular Hydronaut II, ref. 20060. The 9 o’clock subdial, for some reason, is totally different than the other two, and the date is at 4:30. Another quirky aspect of the watch is the date corrector at 10 o’clock–that’s not a helium escape valve (its 200m depth rating doesn’t necessitate one). Hydronaut II chronographs are definitely different from Tudor’s current offerings, and they don’t come up for sale very often. But when they do, they’re generally in the $3,000 ballpark.

Tudor Hydronaut II Chronograph Specs

Model Name	Hydronaut II Chronograph
Reference Number(s)	20360N
Years Produced	2009-2012
Case Material	Stainless Steel
Case Size	Diameter: 41mm Thickness: 11mm Lug-to-lug: 46.6mm
Water Resistance	200m
Movement Caliber	ETA 2824-2 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve	38 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Bracelet/Strap Options	Steel bracelet or rubber strap
Market Value (May 2024)	~$2,850 USD

Hydro 1200

If you wrote “Invicta” on the dial of this next watch, nobody would bat an eye. The Tudor Hydro 1200 is an absolute monster. Everything about this watch is huge–crown, crown guard, lugs, bezel, bezel text, dial text, logo, hands, hour markers, and a 24mm lug width. There’s also a conspicuous red-trimmed helium escape valve at 9 o’clock. Perhaps intentionally, its depth rating of 3,930 feet falls just short of the 4,000-foot rating of the Rolex Sea-Dweller. But that’s just semantics–this is the most hardcore diver Tudor has ever made, and it was basically their flagship watch in its day.

The huge blocky numbers on the bezel are something you probably wouldn’t see watch brands make now. And seriously, check out those thick, veiny hands. The Hydro 1200 is really something, and because it was only made for 2 or 3 years, it’s actually fairly rare–although not as rare as the Hydronaut 2 Chronograph. It never really caught on, but it has its admirers. Personally I prefer it on a rubber strap, because the alternating steel and black ceramic links on the available bracelet are too Rado-like for my taste.

Tudor Hydro 1200 Specs

Model Name	Hydro 1200
Reference Number(s)	25000
Years Produced	2009-2012
Case Material	Stainless Steel
Case Size	Diameter: 45.5mm Thickness: 15mm Lug-to-lug: 52mm
Water Resistance	1200m
Movement Caliber	ETA 2824-2 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve	38 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Bracelet/Strap Options	Steel/ceramic five-link bracelet or rubber strap
Market Value (May 2024)	~$2,750 USD

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42.3mm Models Released for 2024
A Guide to Omega Dive Watches

Chronautic

The successor to Tudor’s beloved Rolex Daytona-like Small Block chronograph was the Chronautic, made from about 2000-2008. In some parts of the world, like Hong Kong, the Small Block was still sold that entire time, also. The Chronautic isn’t too wild, although it does have the unusual geometric hands from the Hydronaut. The case is slightly more swoopy and Tag Heuer-like than old Tudor chronos, but not in a bad way. The slate dial option looks particularly nice on the Chronautic.

Except for a salmon option, all Chronautic dials are variations of black/white/grey, including a checkerboard carbon fiber dial like the one offered on the Hydronaut. There’s also a “waffle panda” dial:

Although its look isn’t exactly “timeless,” the Tudor Chronautic has a coherent, pleasant aesthetic and I wouldn’t be surprised to see it get more appreciation eventually. If you’re considering ETA-based sport chronographs under $3,000, a Chronautic is certainly worth a look.

Tudor Chronautic Specs

Model Name	Chronautic
Reference Number(s)	79380P
Years Produced	2000-2008
Case Material	Stainless Steel
Case Size	DIameter: 41mm Thickness: 13.9mm Lug-to-lug: 47mm
Water Resistance	100m
Movement Caliber	ETA/Valjoux 7750 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve	42 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Bracelet/Strap Options	Leather or Bracelet
Market Value (May 2024)	~$2,800 USD

Sport Chrono

Just as the Chronautic shared the hands from the Hydronaut, the Sport Chrono introduced in 2007 was given the same hands as the Hydronaut II. With a wide bezel, huge shiny lugs, oversized logo, and a 22mm Oyster bracelet, the Sport Chrono is more aggressive than the Chronautic that it replaced. Although it looks pretty chunky, it has the same reasonable 41mm diameter.

The Sport Chrono uses the ETA 7753 movement rather than the 7750, so the subdials are in a 3-6-9 configuration instead of 6-9-12. The circular date window was a bit of an odd choice, but not as odd as the choice to write the word “CHRONO” at the top of the dial in enormous partly-cut-off letters. The reverse panda dial seen below is one of the only dials without that feature.

The Sport Chrono was discontinued in 2010, when the Tudor Heritage Chrono debuted and the Tudor Hydronaut era was coming to an end.

Tudor Sport Chrono Specs

Model Name	Sport Chrono
Reference Number(s)	20300
Years Produced	2007-2010
Case Material	Stainless Steel
Case Size	DIameter: 41mm Thickness: 14mm Lug-to-lug: 46.6mm
Water Resistance	150m
Movement Caliber	ETA/Valjoux 7753 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve	42 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Bracelet/Strap Options	Leather or Bracelet
Market Value	~$2,500 USD

Aeronaut

The Tudor Aeronaut, with a 6 o’clock subdial and multiple pushers, looks somewhat like a chronograph at first glance. But it was actually Tudor’s first GMT model, released in 2006. The 2 o’clock pusher advances the main hour hand one hour, while the 4 o’clock pusher moves it back an hour. The 8 o’clock pusher advances the date, so all travel-related time changes can be made without unscrewing the crown. Three pushers just for managing a second time zone may seem odd, but it’s actually a pretty unique, practical interpretation of the GMT function.

The subdial at 6 o’clock displays a pointer date function, which is unusual for Tudor. It was probably easier to make the date pusher advance a small subdial hand than a date window. In any case, it works with the watch’s vibe. While most Aeronauts have the same well-lumed stick hands as the Hydronaut II, some have Milsub-style sword hands. Aeronauts with sword hands have a Star Trek logo-like date pointer hand, too.

And don’t let the fat, prominent lugs fool you–the Aeronaut is a surprisingly slim and wearable watch, with a case height of about 10.5mm. If you’re not a fan of the ” giant 2-4-8-10″ dial, keep in mind that most of the other dial options have “AERONAUT” written in faint huge letters across the middle of the entire dial. I mean hey, it was 2006, but fortunately there are some regular stick dials too–they’re harder to find, though.

Tudor Aeronaut Specs

Model Name	Aeronaut
Reference Number(s)	20200
Years Produced	2006-2011
Case Material	Stainless Steel
Case Size	DIameter: 41mm Thickness: 10.5mm Lug-to-lug: 46.6mm
Water Resistance	150m
Movement Caliber	ETA 2892-A2 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve	42 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, small pointer date, GMT
Bracelet/Strap Options	Leather or Bracelet
Market Value	~$2,300 USD

Iconaut

Out of all of Tudor’s loud early-2000’s sports models, the Iconaut is probably the most over-the-top. It’s the only Tudor ever made with both a chronograph and a GMT function. Tudor didn’t shy away from eye-catching design elements here: each of the three subdials has its own look, and most of the dials offered have an unusual “axe blade” shape on the left.

The ones without the axe blade have the aforementioned Star Trek logo-like subdial hands. The 4 o’clock date window and large stylized bezel typeface also add to the unique look. The Iconaut didn’t sell very well, and was only made from 2008-2011.

Tudor Iconaut Specs

Model Name	Iconaut
Reference Number(s)	20400
Years Produced	2008-2011
Case Material	Stainless Steel
Case Size	Diameter: 43mm Thickness: 15mm Lug-to-lug: 52mm
Water Resistance	150m
Movement Caliber	ETA 7754 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve	42 hours
Movement Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph, GMT
Bracelet/Strap Options	Steel bracelet or rubber strap
Market Value	~$2,600 USD

Tudor Hydronaut Era: A Comeback?

Tudor has, arguably, largely managed to escape the shadow of Rolex at this point. But when the Tudor Hydronaut was first released, that must have seemed like a daunting task. So, while some of their early-2000’s design choices may seem a bit aggressive now, ultimately the decision to aesthetically distance themselves from Rolex was a wise one.

It’s undeniable that the busy design language of watches like the Iconaut and Aeronaut has gone out of style. But it remains to be seen if the shamelessly-loud-and-sporty aesthetic typical of the Tudor Hydronaut era will come back. It just might!

More on Tudor:
Tudor Pelagos Collector’s Guide
Tudor 2024 Releases
Tudor Black Bay 54 vs 58
Rolex Sales at All-Time High in 2023 as Tudor Sales Decline: Report
Tudor Pro Cycling Watches: 2 Special Black Chronographs

A “Rolex Coke” is any Rolex GMT-Master II watch with a red-and-black bezel insert. The GMT-Master first debuted in 1954 with a red-and-blue colorway that collectors call the “Pepsi.” The Coke didn’t appear until 1983, with the advent of the GMT-Master II (featuring an independent 24-hour hand). The Rolex Coke remained in the lineup until its discontinuation in 2007. Although Rolex fans keep predicting its revival, it hasn’t happened yet–well, unless you count the rare “Icy Coke” versions with rubies and black sapphires on the bezel. Here’s everything you need to know about Rolex Coke models.

Rolex “Fat Lady” GMT-Master II ref. 16760 (1983-1989)

When the GMT-Master II was introduced in 1983, the regular GMT-Master (with a 24-hour hand locked to the regular hour hand) was still in production as well. Presumably part of the rationale behind the red-and-black colorway was to differentiate the then-new GMT-Master II from the previous model, so the Coke bezel was never offered on the GMT-Master 1. Meanwhile Coke was the only option for the original GMT-Master II, ref. 16760, which was made until 1989.

Collectors call the 16760 the “Fat Lady” because of its relatively thick case (although 12.6mm isn’t all that thick) and thick crown guards. Some people also call it the “Sophia Lauren” because of her, well, thickness, but that Rolex nickname seems to be falling out of fashion. Unlike older GMT’s, the Fat Lady has a sapphire crystal and a movement that ticks at the modern rate of 8 beats per second (cal. 3085). But it still has vintage features like tritium lume and an open-6 date wheel. Because of its short run, the 16760 is pretty collectible, but prices aren’t too crazy. Good examples can be had for under $13,000.

Rolex Coke GMT ref. 16710 (1989-2007)

The Rolex Coke GMT ref. 16710 replaced the Fat Lady in 1989, and the differences were pretty minimal. Its 3185 movement was a slight upgrade, featuring no glued-together parts. The industrial adhesive Rolex used in the 3085 is generally perfectly sufficient to keep the hairspring glued to the regulator stud, but most luxury watch buyers don’t like the idea of “glue.” Aside from that, the 3185 delivers very similar performance to the 3085, although it is slimmer, helping reduce the case height by about 0.6mm.

The crown guard on the 16710 is more svelte than that of the 16760, and eagled-eyed watch nerds will notice that the minute hand is slightly slimmer too. Arguably the only big change was that the 16710 was offered with three bezel options instead of just one: Pepsi, Coke, or all-black. Pepsi inserts generally sell for a premium relative to the other two. Rolex Service Centers are usually pretty cool about letting you buy different bezel inserts for your 16710, though. Rolex Forums user shammad10 purchased a Pepsi bezel insert for his all-black 16710 at RSC in 2023.

The 16710 got non-radioactive Super-LumiNova lume (instead of the old tritium) in about 1999. It got solid end links roughly a year later, and then the lugholes disappeared around 2002. The non-lughole model technically got its own reference number, 16710T, although collectors often simply call them “16710” as well.

Towards the end of its run in 2007, 16710T’s began to get outfitted with 3186 movements, which have slightly better magnetic resistance and less “wobble” in the 24-hour hand when setting compared to the 3185. Some people thought that collectors might go nuts for 5-digit Rolex sports models with the 3186 due to the short overlap, but…the market didn’t end up caring all that much.

Rolex “Coke With Ice” GMT

Among the Rolex off-catalog 2024 releases were two “Coke with Ice” GMT-Master II models featuring extravagant bezels set with rubies and black sapphires, along with diamonds covering the lugs, crown guard, and bracelet. The original Icy Coke Rolex GMT came one year earlier with a diamond-free bracelet. Expect resale prices well over $150,000 if you ever see one on the market.

Rolex Coke GMT Specs

Model	GMT-Master II Coke “Fat Lady”	GMT-Master II Coke	GMT-Master II “Icy Coke”
Reference Number	16760 (1983-1989)	16710 (1989-2002) 16710T (2002-2007)	126758 RUSA (2023) 126778 RUSA (2024) 126779 RUSA (2024)
Case Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel	18k yellow or white gold with diamond-set lugs and crown guard
Case	Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 12.6mm Lug-to-lug: 47.6mm	Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 12mm Lug-to-lug: 47.2mm	Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 12.2mm Lug-to-lug: 48.1mm
Water Resistance	100m	100m	100m
Movement	Rolex 3085 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)	Rolex 3185, 3186 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)	Rolex 3285 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT	Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT	Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Bracelet/Strap	Stainless steel Oyster or Jubilee bracelet	Stainless steel Oyster or Jubilee bracelet	18k gold Oyster bracelet (12677x versions have baguette-set outer links)
Power Reserve	48 hours	50 hours	70 hours
Market Price (Apr. 2024)	~$12,800	~$11,000	~$160,000-250,000

We’ll refrain from making any predictions about the future of the Rolex Coke. Maybe they’ll bring it back; maybe they won’t. Either way, there are plenty of perfectly good 5-digit Cokes on the pre-owned market, so there’s no need to wait and find out.

More on Rolex:
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Rolex Sales at All-Time High in 2023 as Tudor Sales Decline: Report
Rolex Plans to Improve Vintage Servicing Capability by 2026
Here’s Every Model Rolex Discontinued in 2024

For the most part, Cartier is a relatively approachable brand. Some of the most affordable offerings start at around $3k retail. Compared to other renowned watchmakers such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, that’s quite reasonable for anyone interested in investing in a high-end timepiece. However, if you delve deep enough into Cartier history and other lore, you will find that the Maison has produced some astonishingly expensive watches, including animal-inspired watches dripping in diamonds and gemstones, one-of-a-kind models, and watches that are valuable simply because of their notoriety. Let’s explore a few of the most expensive of the bunch.

Cartier Cheich

The ultimate trophy. Cartier collaborated with Thierry Sabine, the founder of the Dakar Rally, in the 1980s to dream up a rare prize for the notoriously grueling 10,000-kilometer landrace winner. To win the watch, participants had to take first place in their respective categories – motorcycle, car, or truck – two years in a row, a feat now dubbed the “Cartier Challenge.” That watch was the Cartier Cheich, of which it is rumored only a few examples were ever made.

What came of those watches has been a complete mystery for the past four decades. That is until 2022 when an example worn by two-time Dakar Rally winner Gaston Rahier hit the Sotheby’s auction block. The watch, shrouded in a gold cloth-like bezel like what Tuareg nomads would wear, was estimated to fetch between $200,00 and $400,000 and sold for a staggering $1.1 million.

Cartier Cheich Specs:

Case:	38mm x 24mm
Metal Finish:	18k Yellow Gold
Bracelet:	Leather w/ 18k Yellow Gold Cartier Buckle
Dial:	White Roman Numeral
Crown:	Blue Cabochon
Movement:	Caliber FE 664 Manual Wind
2022 Pre-Owned Price:	$1.1 Million

1967 Cartier London Crash

A yellow gold example of the warped Cartier Crash with a London-signed dial popped up on Loupe This in 2022. It’s one of the earliest examples of the Crash ever sold at auction. While Cartier has produced many different iterations of the watch since it was developed in the 1960s, it remains an incredibly exclusive model and is typically only sold in very limited production runs. So, when the gold model went up for auction in 2022, it was estimated to sell for $500,000 – $800,000 and ultimately closed at a cool $1,654,277. The psychedelic collection has a serious cult following and a design unlike any other, which can also explain why it commands such a high premium.

1967 Cartier London Crash Specs:

Case:	23mm x 43mm
Metal Finish:	18k Yellow Gold
Bracelet:	Leather Strap
Dial:	Off-White
Crown:	Cabochon
Movement:	Caliber 841 Manaul Wind
2022 Pre-Owned Price:	$1,654,277

Cartier Phoenix Décor Secret Watch

Browse Cartier’s catalog at any given moment, and you will find no shortage of iced-out animal-inspired timepieces. They perfectly capture the mystery and elegant forms of the animal kingdom’s most exotic creatures with a dazzling display of precious metals, diamonds, and colorful gemstones. The Cartier Phoenix Décor Secret Watch is one of the most expensive ever made, featuring white gold decorated with over 3,000 glittering diamonds.

Tiny emeralds serve as the eyes (a common design element on many Cartier animal watches), and the dial is hidden among the feathers on the back of the Phoenix. I couldn’t find a firm source for this watch, but it does appear to be a one-of-a-kind Cartier valued between $2.5 million and $3.8 million.

Cartier Phoenix Décor Secret Watch Specs:

Case:	31 mm x 52 mm
Metal Finish:	White Gold
Bracelet:	Cuff-Style
Dial:	Silver
Market Value (2024):	$2.5 Million – $3.8 Million

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

Cartier Mystery Clocks lean heavily on the art of illusion to display the time. The hands, mounted on translucent discs, appear to float because the movement is cleverly, and quite mysteriously, hidden within the clock base. This design is the inspiration for one of the most expensive Cartier watches in the current lineup, a limited edition of the Rotonde de Cartier in platinum and diamonds. Like the company’s gravity-defying Mystery Clocks, the hands are mounted on a translucent dial. Save for some horological sorcery, I imagine it would be impossible to conceal the movement completely.

Instead, Cartier has developed the caliber 9801 MC, which combines the entire movement into the winding rotor, leaving half of the dial completely empty. The biggest mystery is how the company hid the connection between the crown and the movement. Cartier made different examples of the Mystery dial watch, including the full platinum and diamond model retailing for $1.29 million upon its release in 2022.

Cartier Rotonde Masse Mystérieuse Specs:

Case:	46mm
Metal Finish:	950/1000 Platinum
Bracelet:	950/1000 Platinum
Dial:	Transparent
Crown:	Beaded, Set With a Diamond
Movement:	Caliber 9801 MC Automatic
2022 Retail Price:	$1.29 Million

Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater Circa 1929

A rare and very early example of the Cartier Tortue Minute repeater popped up at auction on Antiquorum in 2002, fetching more than $1 million. The gold watch, produced in 1929, featured an EWC movement with a straight-line lever escapement and resounding minute repeater activated by a slide on the left side of the case.

The Tortue had already been in production for over a decade by the time this model came to market, but the minute repeater was a new complication. Cartier added it to the Tortue copusher chronograph, making this 1929 model one of the first made in Cartier history. It was likely one of the most expensive Cartier watches when it was first sold, and it still is. According to Antiquorum, the watch was originally sold in 1931.

Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater Circa 1929 Specs:

Case:	32mm x 40 mm
Metal Finish:	18k Yellow Gold
Bracelet:	Leather Strap
Dial:	White, Roman Numeral
Movement:	Caliber 11 European Watch & Clock Co. Manual Wind
2002 Pre-Owned Price:	CHF 993,500

Honorable Mention: Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ Gold Cartier Tank

This next Cartier might not break the $1 million barrier, but it was an important model nonetheless as a meaningful relic of the Kennedy Presidency. Not to mention, it sold for well over its original $60,000 – $120,000 auction estimate, with a final bid of $379,500. The 1962 gold Cartier Tank was gifted to the former First Lady in 1963 by her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw “Stas” Radizwell during JFK’s 50-mile hike at Palm Beach. A special case back engraving reading, “STAS TO JACKIE, 23 FEB. 63. 2:05AM TO 9:35PM” commemorated the occasion. Jackie was also pictured wearing the watch often, adding to its provenance.

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ Gold Cartier Tank Specs:

Case:	20mm x 28mm
Metal Finish:	18k Yellow Gold
Bracelet:	Leather Strap/18k Yellow Gold Cartier Deployant Clasp
Dial:	Silvered Roman Numeral
Crown:	Blue Cabochon
Movement:	Manual, stamped OYP
2017 Pre-Owned Price:	$379,500

The fact that the most expensive Cartier watches are trading hands in the millions is a testament to the brand’s influence on fashion and watchmaking. Even more impressive is that many of those watches would otherwise be considered standard models, such as Jackie O’s gold Tank and the 1929 Tortue Minute Repeater. They don’t have to be dripping in diamonds to command an incredible premium on the secondary market.

More on Cartier:
Cartier 2024 Releases
Who Owns Cartier?
How Much Does A Cartier Tank Cost in 2024?
The Best Entry Level Cartier Watches
Omega vs. Cartier: The Battle for #2

In 2022, just six years after winning his second gold medal at the Rio Olympics, retired Swiss pro cyclist Fabian Cancellara started his own cycling team. Thanks to a partnership with Tudor, the team would soon begin racing as Tudor Pro Cycling, and they now compete at the second-highest level of professional cycling in the world. The team is brimming with Swiss riders and Swiss equipment. In May 2024, Tudor released a special “Cycling Edition” of their Pelagos FXD Chrono, but it wasn’t the first time they made a Tudor Pro Cycling-themed watch. A rare PVD-coated Black Bay Chrono model was made in 2022, but only for actual members of the team. Here’s all the key info on these two watches.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition ref. 25827KN

The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” has the same black fixed-bar 43mm carbon composite case as the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” released in 2023. Like every Tudor chronograph powered by the Breitling-based MT5813 caliber, the minute register goes up to 45 minutes. The black date wheel on the Cycling Edition is a nice touch. All other Pelagos models have rotating bezels; interestingly, this has a fixed titanium 60-minute bezel.

In fact it’s the first fixed 60-minute bezel Tudor has ever made. Another first for them is the “snail” tachymeter around the edge of the dial. The Tudor Pro Cycling team is fast, but no human has ever ridden faster than 65 kilometers per hour over a whole kilometer. So, the inner rungs are more useful to cyclists–a tachymeter stopping at 60 units per hour would be pointless. You can get one from your local authorized Tudor dealer for $5,275. Although they may be hard to get at first, I expect they’ll become more available eventually. The next watch we’ll show you, however, seemingly never turns up for sale.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Cycling Edition ref. 79360DK

In 2019, Tudor released a special edition of the Black Bay Chrono with a full black PVD treatment on its case and bracelet to celebrate the New Zealand All Blacks rugby team–ref. 79360DK. They made about 1,200 and they sold for double MSRP for a while. The market has cooled on those (along with PVD-coated watches as a whole) but there’s another 79360DK that’s much harder to find: the one made exclusively for members of the Tudor Pro Cycling team in 2022.

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Instead of a bracelet, the Black Bay Chrono Dark Cycling Edition has a Velcro NATO strap with a distinctive red stripe. Also, unlike the All Blacks version, it features red subdial rings and a red Tudor shield logo. It goes well with the red depth rating. Unfortunately, like all PVD-coated watches, its finish will doubtlessly show flakey silvery patches after a few years of regular wear. Regardless, it’s a slick-looking watch. Here you can see Maikel Zijlaard of the Tudor Pro Cycling team sporting the special Black Bay Chrono Dark in 2023:

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A post shared by Maikel Zijlaard (@maikelzijlaard)

Specifications

Model	Black Bay Chrono Dark Cycling Edition	Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition
Year Introduced	2022	2024
Reference	79360DK	25827KN
Case Material	PVD-coated stainless steel	Carbon composite with titanium bezel
Case Size	Diameter: 41mm Thickness: 14.4mm Lug-to-lug: 49.9mm	Diameter: 43mm Thickness: 13.2mm Lug-to-lug: 53mm
Water Resistance	200m	100m
Movement	MT5813 (Breitling B01 base, automatic, 8 beats per second)	MT5813 (Breitling B01 base, automatic, 8 beats per second)
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Power Reserve	70 hours	70 hours
Bracelet/Strap	NATO fabric strap with Velcro closure	NATO fabric strap with tang buckle
MSRP (Apr. 2024)	n/a	$5,275

Does the Tudor Pro Cycling Team Wear These When Racing?

No. If you scroll deeper through photos of Tudor’s cyclists, you’ll see that they don’t actually wear watches at all when they race. Cyclists at this level are obsessive about aerodynamics and weight so that’s understandable. Although it’s fun to fantasize about these Tudor Pro Cycling watches being some sort of indispensable tool for advanced athletics, I can accept them for what they are–a couple of cool-looking black chronographs.

More on Tudor:
Tudor 2024 Watch Releases
Tudor Black Bay 54 vs 58
Tudor Black Bay Collector’s Guide
Long-Term Review: Two Years with the Tudor Royal 41mm
Everything You Need to Know About Tudor Military Watches