These are 5 “Big Boss Watches” for those higher-level collectors – ‘must have’ watches for those serious about building a well-rounded collection. Let’s get right into it.
‘Must Have’ Watches for the Serious Collector
My choices here today are really going to be aimed at your collectors that have an established collection already. These are collectors that have been collecting for a few years, have a little bit more disposable income, and want some watches that are statement pieces, something a little different and off the beaten path.
These are collectors that have already been through the phase of buying Rolex watches, maybe even they own a few from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, namely in the Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus or of course the Aquanaut, even potentially a Vacheron Constantin Overseas.
I feel these are fine watches but really are in a category that is very neglected in the world today, especially for those higher-level collectors who typically chase those hyped sports watches, which you’ll see on the table here really aren’t those at all.
These are statement pieces, conversation pieces, and watches for the proper watch enthusiasts, those who have been collecting for a little while and want something a little bit different, and that really do make a statement for those who know.
Patek Philippe 5139G
The first watch is from arguably the most prestigious brand in all of watches, it’s the Patek Philippe 5139G.
What you see here is a white gold perpetual calendar with a really distinct hobnail bezel. Overall, I feel that the balance that Patek achieves in this watch is just incredible. They’re able to combine a more classical complication in the perpetual calendar along with a slightly more classic design queue in the hobnail bezel, but really modernize it and create a timeless elegance in this watch that is just unmistakable for Patek Philippe. Overall, the build quality of this watch is sensational.
What you’re getting is truly what I feel are the best watches from Patek, which are their complicated dress watches. It’s powered by the 240 micro-rotor movement, which was also featured in a historical Patek, the reference 3940, which is one of, if not the most collectible references for perpetual calendar Patek Philippe’s.
It’s nice to know that the techs and specs live up to ultimately Patek Philippe standards. What you get in this watch and what you’ll get in a lot of these watches are an amazing level of quality, amazing finishing, and amazing execution. Everything is thought out and executed to the highest level in the industry. It’s definitely true for the first watch, the reference 5139G, because ultimately it’s a timeless classic that will endure to live on forever and never go out of style. So this next ‘must have’ watch is definitely an avant-garde choice.
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MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar
The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar is one of my absolute favorite watches and I definitely plan on owning an MB&F at some point in my life just because the design language is so distinct.
At the time that this watch is released, this was the first ever foolproof perpetual calendar. Now, what does that mean? Well, perpetual calendar movements are known to be some of the most delicate movements out there. You’re getting a watch with a ton of very fine components, and when you’re setting the calendar, it is ultimately prone to breaking. There are a few different ways to take care of it and make sure that you won’t ultimately harm the movement itself. But given the small components in the watch itself, it is just natural for it to be a delicate movement overall.
To counter this, the watchmaker who made this movement, an Irish watchmaker by the name of Steven McDonald, created a mechanism that actually locks the perpetual calendar mechanism during the danger zone of 10:00 PM and 2:00 AM. He also created a perpetual calendar system that operates on a 28-day calendar system as opposed to the 30 and 31 day system, both of which are totally unique to the watch industry, making this a first in the industry overall.
The dial, with the base plate in blue is exceptional, mixed with that yellow gold case, it truly does pop. The incredible floating balance wheel and the really well-finished balance bridge that suspends the balance wheel in the air itself and the semi-skeletonized dial, which is executed to perfection and shows off a lot of the fine intricate components of this watch.
Overall, I think MB&F achieves an aesthetic that is completely distinct and unique with this ‘must have’ watch in a mechanism that is the first of its kind in the industry. Without question, it is an amazing choice for somebody looking for something off the beaten path that is a true statement-maker.
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F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain
This next watch is by one of the most important independent watchmakers in the world today, and that is F.P. Journe. When F.P. Journe launched his brand in 1999 with the Tourbillon Souverain, he set a standard for independent watchmaking: to create new forms of mechanical art that had never been done before.
The ‘must have’ watch featured here is one of his most simple, but it has so many fine details that make you appreciate his watchmaking and his watches overall and really are a testament to the quality of his watches.
This model in particular is the Chronomètre Souverain in what is known as the Havana dial with a platinum case.
This is one of Journe’s simplest watches, it just has a sub-second and a power reserve indicator. But one thing to note is, of course, the incredible attention to detail, first and foremost with the amazing numerals and the hands that he used that are so distinct to the F.P.Journe brand. Most important is the movement itself.
Although it is a very simple time-only watch with a power reserve, it does have what is known as two barrels in sequence to ultimately allow for the watch’s movement to be more accurate over time. So when you wind a watch, what ends up happening is you end up having huge imbalances in power over time. When a watch is fully wound, it exudes a lot more power, whereas when you’re at the end of your watch’s power reserve, it exudes a lot less power.
By having these two barrels in sequence with each other, what F.P.Journe allows is a more equal and constant power delivery over the course of the watch’s power reserve, allowing for the watch to ultimately be more accurate. This is a testament to the fine watchmaking, and the attention to detail that F.P.Journe puts into his watches.
I really do think this is a wonderful example of a fantastic watch from one of the most important independent watchmakers in the world today.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Next up is a definite boss watch. It is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, this time in full ceramic. This watch is definitely a future icon, given that it is the first watch ever from AP featuring both a ceramic case and a ceramic bracelet.
The way that AP achieved this is still beyond me. To polish and bevel a watch of this caliber, a bracelet, a case, a bezel of this caliber, truly is nothing but remarkable. What you get is high horology finish on a material that is extremely brittle and prone to breaking, but yet you have a level of execution and precision that truly cannot be understated.
If you do have, for example, a three-hand Royal Oak or a Royal Oak Jumbo, a watch like this, a perpetual calendar Royal Oak, really will allow you to make tremendous strides in your collection and is a statement piece.
More on Audemars Piguet:
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A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph
Last, but certainly not least, is one of my absolute favorite watches in the world today, and that is the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. This particular version sports a rose gold case with a black dial.
This beauty features the same base movement as Lange dataograph, which shook up the watch industry upon its release in 1999, given the one of a kind movement architecture, and the fact that it was the first in-house manual wind chrono developed in almost 40 years.
You get all that history, all that heritage in a format that I think is actually a little bit cleaner than the dataograph overall, given the fact that it is a slightly slimmer case and a slightly smaller profile, which suits my smaller wrist better.
Now, of course, that doesn’t mean that the dataograph is any pushover. I think it’s a phenomenal piece if you choose it over the 1815 Chronograph. A. Lange & Söhne is one of, if not the very best, makers of manual wind chronographs on the market today. Just seeing this in the flesh is when you can truly appreciate just how high quality this watch, is from its hands to its dial to its incredible case.
This timepiece is truly a statement maker, and one of the absolute best manual wind chronographs on the market today. The quality, the feeling that you get when you actuate the chronograph, is just truly one of a kind.
Takeaways
Now, of course, these five choices aren’t the end all be all. There are a ton of amazing options out there on the market today, but I feel these are all very unique, amazing conversation starters, and not to mention they’re fantastic watches that aren’t your typical Rolex, Patek, and AP sports watches. Whether you’re an avid collector or whether you’re somebody just looking for something that is a true statement-maker.
