The Rolex Explorer II was initially developed with an AM/PM indicator to allow spelunkers to differentiate between day and night in dark caves; however, it evolved into an adventure watch with GMT functionality. Not only did Rolex tweak the function of the Explorer II, but the brand also updated the watch’s design along the way. Today, the Explorer II is one of Rolex’s most robust sports watches with a bold look distinct from the rest of the catalog. Due to the Explorer II’s distinctive style, it can be challenging to find a suitable alternative. Yet, they’re out there, and we’ve rounded them up here for you. Keep reading to discover the best Rolex Explorer II alternatives from high-end watch brands. As always, you won’t find cheap homages or sub-par substitutes here; just a gathering of (sometimes pricier) sporty GMT watches made by top watchmakers that offer a similar vibe to the Explorer II.
Key Explorer II Design Characteristics
Before we lay out all the best alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II, it’s important to understand the design details that make the watch what it is.
- Round stainless steel case (42mm current/modern, 40mm discontinued/neo-vintage, 39mm vintage)
- GMT functionality
- Fixed steel bezel engraved with 24-hour scale
- Black or white dial
- Date window at 3 o’clock, magnified by Cyclops lens
- Four hands at the dial center: 12-hour hand, 24-hour arrow-tipped hand, minute hand, and seconds hand
- Depending on the model, red (discontinued) or orange 24-hour hand
- Three-link Oyster bracelet
- Automatic movement
Today’s versions of the Rolex Explorer II sport 42mm cases and come fitted with either a sleek black dial or a crisp white dial affectionately known as the “Polar,” both punctuated with a bright orange 24-hour hand. The 2023 retail price of the Explorer II ref. 226570 is $9,650.
Back to Basics: What is a GMT watch?
Alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II
With the above design blueprint in mind, here are the best high-end alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II from Tudor, Breitling, Grand Seiko, Omega, Panerai, and Vacheron Constantin.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Released in 2022, the Tudor Black Bay Pro looks quite similar to the very first Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 (a.k.a. the “Freccione,” or the “Steve McQueen”) from 1971, complete with an almost identical 24-hour engraved fixed bezel and the same 39mm case diameter. However, unlike the maiden Explorer II’s simpler AM/PM indicator, Tudor’s Black Bay Pro is a GMT watch — plus, it’s a “true” GMT whereby the local hour hand can be set independently of the 24-hour hand for quick adjustments during travel.
The Black Bay Pro black dial is home to a yellow 24-hour hand, which you can argue is different from the original Explorer II’s orange hand on its black dial; but let’s be honest, there’s certainly a parallel there. The Explorer II 1655 is a highly collectible vintage Rolex watch that can be very pricey; the Black Bay Pro from Rolex’s sibling company is a much less expensive alternative with the added benefit of a GMT.
Tudor Black Bay Pro Specs
Reference | 79470 |
Case | Stainless steel, 39mm |
Bezel | Fixed, Stainless steel, 24-hour scale |
Dial | Black, 12-hour hand, 24-hour hand, Minute hand, Seconds hand, Date window |
Bracelet | Three-link steel, Hybrid rubber/leather strap, or Black and yellow fabric strap |
Movement | Caliber MT5652, Automatic, 70-hour power reserve |
Water Resistance | 200 meters (660 feet) |
2023 Retail Price | $3,900 (with straps), $4,225 (with bracelet) |
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Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40
Breitling has been working hard to shed its oversized, overdone watches from the 1990s and 2000s, replacing them with sleeker new models that pay tribute to the company’s illustrious heritage while also accounting for modern tastes and expectations. Enter the Chronomat, which retains fan-favorite details like the onion crown and rouleaux bracelet but repackaged in the streamlined design that debuted in 2020.
The Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 joined the lineup in 2022, and it’s one of our picks for a solid alternative to the Rolex Explorer II. Not only do both watches feature steel cases, steel bracelets, and steel bezels with graduations but the white dial Chronomat with a red GMT hand offers a similar fresh face as the Explorer II “Polar.” Yes, the scale on the Chronomat’s bezel is 60 minutes (the 24-hour scale is on the rehaut, a.k.a. the flange), the date window is at 6 o’clock rather than three, and the rouleaux bracelet is completely different from the Oyster bracelet. Yet, these small details don’t take away the fact that the Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 is one of the best alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II — and it happens to be much less expensive too.
Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Specs
Reference | A32398101A1A1 |
Case | Stainless steel, 40mm |
Bezel | Undirectional, Stainless steel, 60-minute scale |
Dial | White, 12-hour hand, 24-hour hand, Minute hand, Seconds hand, Date window |
Bracelet | Steel |
Movement | Caliber 32, Automatic, 42-hour power reserve |
Water Resistance | 200 meters (660 feet) |
2023 Retail Price | $5,950 |
Learn More: History of Breitling
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra collection may be best known for its variety of straightforward water-resistant time and date models; yet, it is also home to a selection of more complicated models. Take for example the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, which is a worthy alternative to the Explorer II if you want something a touch dressier and slightly larger.
The Aqua Terra GMT ref. 231.10.43.22.01.001 includes a 43mm stainless steel case, fitted with a matching three-link bracelet. The black dial features the stripped “teak-like” pattern characteristic of many Aqua Terra models, and interestingly, the 24-hour scale is placed close to the dial center. Also on the dial is a date window at 6 o’clock, accompanied by a red-tipped 24-hour hand and a matching red “GMT” inscription. The Aqua Terra GMT is truly a GADA watch that can keep track of two time zones wherever you are in the world.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Specs
Reference | 231.10.43.22.01.001 |
Case | Stainless steel, 43mm |
Bezel | Smooth steel |
Dial | Black, 12-hour hand, 24-hour hand, Minute hand, Seconds hand, Date window |
Bracelet | Three-link steel |
Movement | Caliber 8605, Automatic, 60-hour power reserve |
Water Resistance | 150 meters (500 feet) |
Last Published Retail Price (Discontinued) | $7,900 |
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Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT
When it comes to luxury watches that offer plenty of value, Grand Seiko is often at the top of the list. The expert finishing of the cases, execution of the beautiful dials inspired by the beautiful landscape of the mountains of Nagano, Japan, and innovative movements have paved the way for legions of Grand Seiko fans everywhere.
The Evolution 9 GMT SBGE285, launched in 2022, is Grand Seiko’s answer to the Rolex Explorer II — but of course, with signature details characteristic of the Japanese watchmaker. The case and bracelet are fashioned from lightweight titanium, a favorite metal of the brand, while the fixed bezel is engraved with 24 hours. In true Grand Seiko form, the dial is exquisite, borrowing from the famed GS “Snowflake” motif but rendered in misty morning gray — hence the watch’s nickname, the “Mistflake.” The quartet of hands at the center of the dial, date window at 3, and power reserve indicator at 9 are powered by the Caliber 9R66 Spring Drive, which is Grand Seiko’s legendary hybrid movement that combines mechanical winding with quartz precision, complete with a sweeping seconds hand.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT Specs
Reference | SBGE285 |
Case | Titanium, 41mm |
Bezel | Fixed, Titanium, 24-hour scale |
Dial | Gray “Snowflake,” 12-hour hand, 24-hour hand, Minute hand, Seconds hand, Date window, Power reserve indicator |
Bracelet | Three-link titanium |
Movement | Caliber 9R66, Spring Drive, 72-hour power reserve |
Water Resistance | 100 meters (330 feet) |
2023 Retail Price | $8,400 |
Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals
Panerai has had a long history of making watches for various navies around the world, not just the Italian one. And in 2022, the company added a special United States Navy SEALs range to its lineup. One of these models that would make a compelling alternative to the Explorer II is the Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals PAM01323.
While the Submersible is Panerai’s modern diving watch line, it retains the iconic cushion-shape silhouette and prominent crown protector bridge of the Panerai Luminor. The PAM01323 features a 44mm stainless steel case, unidirectional rotating diving bezel, and gradient anthracite dial. Panerai is known for somber dials but this one is uncharacteristically vibrant thanks to a smattering of bright yellow details including the arrow-tipped 24-hour hand,
Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals Specs
Reference | PAM01323 |
Case | Stainless steel, 44mm |
Bezel | Unidirectional, Stainless steel, 60-minute scale |
Dial | Anthracite, 12-hour hand, 24-hour hand, Minute hand, Seconds subdial, Date window |
Bracelet | Black rubber strap |
Movement | Caliber P.900, Automatic, Three-day power reserve |
Water Resistance | 300 meters (1,000 feet) |
2023 Retail Price | $10,600 |
More on Panerai Watches:
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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
Although the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is vastly more expensive than the Rolex Explorer II, at the heart of it, these two watches are quite similar. They both have stainless steel cases and bracelets, indicate a second time zone, feature date displays, and benefit from touches of color on their otherwise neutral dials. True, the Overseas displays the additional time zone and date in a different manner than the Explorer II but the resulting information is the same.
Perhaps not so much an alternative as much as an upgrade, the Overseas Dual Time by Vacheron Constantin is nevertheless an excellent sporty dual time watch to consider.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Specs
Reference | 7900V/110A-B333 |
Case | Stainless steel, 41mm |
Bezel | Fixed, Maltese Cross design, Steel |
Dial | Silver, 12-hour hand, 24-hour hand, Minute hand, Seconds hand, Date window |
Bracelet | Steel, Maltese Cross design |
Movement | Caliber 5110 DT, Automatic, 60-hour power reserve |
Water Resistance | 150 meters |
2023 Retail Price | $30,900 |
More on Vacheron Constantin:
The Best Entry-Level Vacheron Constantin Watches
What is the Price of a Vacheron Constantin Overseas?
New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph “Panda” for 2023
Buying Explorer II Alternatives from the Grey Market
That concludes our list of the best alternatives to the Explorer II watch; whether you decide to get the Rolex or opt for a GMT watch from another brand, don’t forget to check market prices.
Not only can you find great deals on pre-owned Explorer II watches (especially neo-vintage models) many of the watches listed above can be purchased at less than retail prices from the grey market.
Other Guides to Rolex Alternatives:
Best Rolex Oyster Perpetual Alternatives
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The Best Rolex Datejust Alternatives
The Best Rolex Explorer Alternatives
Best Alternatives to the Rolex Daytona
Top Affordable Alternatives to Rolex Watches
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