Patek Philippe is well known for its exceedingly expensive watches; this renowned Genevan-based family-run watch house has made some of the priciest timepieces in the history of horology. However, turning our attention away from all the grand complications and hyped sports models for a moment, there are indeed some affordable Patek Philippe watches on the market. Of course, “affordable” is relative here — but when we’re talking about a watch brand that consistently makes watches that people are willing to spend six to seven figures on, a few thousand dollars seems like a bargain. If you’re looking to dip your toes into the prestigious world of Patek, then it may be a good idea to browse some entry-level models first before spending the big bucks. Here are some entry-level Patek Philippe watches to consider.
For Ladies: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz
Although Patek Philippe is a private company that doesn’t divulge any production or financial numbers, seasoned journalists and industry insiders have long reported that the ladies’ Twenty~4 watch is Patek Philippe’s top-selling model. It might be hard for some to believe given that the first-generation Twenty~4 is quite a departure from the rest of the catalog—it’s a simple rectangular watch with a quartz movement.
Patek Philippe debuted the Twenty~4 watch in 1999, featuring an Art Deco-inspired link bracelet cuff design and a cambered rectangular case with two rows of diamonds flanking the rectangular dial. Powered by a quartz movement and available in steel or rose gold, these were easy-to-wear ladies’ Patek Philippe watches that became a hit thanks in large part to their relatively affordable price points. Aside from the standard-production Twenty~4 models with metal bracelets, Patek Philippe also created a few high-jewelry versions and some leather strap variants. Furthermore, in 2018, Patek expanded the collection with round and automatic Twenty~4 watches, which are of course more expensive.
More About Patek Philippe Watch Prices:
The Most Expensive Watches in the World
Why is The Patek Philippe Nautilus So Expensive?
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Price Guide: How Much Does an Aquanaut Cost?
When it comes to entry-level Patek Philippe watches, the Twenty~4 ref. 4910 quartz models will be the most affordable. The current 2024 retail price of a Patek Philippe Twenty~4 ref. 4910 in stainless steel is $15,970 but you can find pre-owned versions on the secondary market for as low as $7,000. While Patek no longer makes the rose gold versions of the 4910, they can be purchased on the pre-owned market starting at around $19,000.
The Classic Dress Watch: Calatrava
Launched in 1932, the Calatrava has long been Patek Philippe’s hero dress watch collection, characterized by slim round cases, restrained proportions, and straightforward dials. Although the collection has welcomed plenty of new references over the years (offering various sizes, functions, metals, and dials) the foundation of the lineup is still there — discreet dress watches that fit perfectly into the quiet luxury aesthetic.
Aside from their elegant designs, another appealing aspect of the Calatrava range is the availability of more affordable models, particularly within the older and smaller references. Take for example the manual-winding Calatrava 3796J; it was released in the early 1980s and features a petite 31mm yellow gold case topped with the now-famous hobnail bezel a.k.a. the Clous de Paris bezel. You can find this reference for around $14,000 on the secondary market. For something a little larger and more modern, there’s the 37mm Calatrava ref. 5196, launched in 2004 and available in white, yellow, or rose gold. If purchased pre-owned, these models generally start at around $17,000. Alternatively, there are the current production 39mm Calatrava ref. 5227 watches in various shades of gold. These retail for $40,220 but pre-owned versions start at around $25,000.
In short, there are a great deal of Calatrava watches to choose from, and many of them would make excellent entry-level luxury watches.
Mid-Century Magic: Golden Ellipse
In 1968, Patek Philippe introduced the Golden Ellipse, using the Golden Ratio (also known as the Golden Section or Divine Proportion) to create the watch’s characteristic elliptical-shaped case, which is somewhere between a circle and a rectangle. The harmonious silhouette of the case was also home to a never-before-seen blue-gold dial, and together, these two components made the Golden Ellipse a smash hit.
Over the following decades, Patek Philippe grew the Golden Ellipse collection with an incredible assortment of watch references (including hand-wound, quartz, and automatic editions, as well as leather strap options and bracelet models) for men and women but also various accessories such as cufflinks, lighters, and jewelry. Today’s lineup is more sparse, only housing three references. Yet, as always, the secondary market offers much more variety and is a great place to look for entry-level Patek Philippe watches.
For instance, one of the longest-running Patek Philippe Ellipse watches was the ref. 3738, manufactured from 1978 to 2009. Depending on condition, date of production, and specific style, expect to pay around $14,000 to $20,000 for a pre-owned Ellipse 3738 watch. The starting prices of ladies’ Patek Philippe Ellipse watches are, unsurprisingly, lower, at around $5,500.
The Sports Watch: Patek Philippe Aquanaut
The Aquanaut is undoubtedly one of Patek Philippe’s most hyped watches in today’s market. Yet, when it comes to buying a Patek sports model, the Aquanaut is entry-level (at least when compared to the Nautilus.) In fact, Patek designed the Aquanaut as a pared-down version (and thus more affordable) of the Nautilus to appeal to a younger generation. For instance, the Aquanaut retained the rounded octagonal bezel of the Nautilus but its case did not include the “hinges” on the sides. Furthermore, Patek paired the Aquanaut with a rubber strap rather than Nautilus’ famous integrated bracelet.
Patek makes the Aquanaut available with various complications such as chronograph, annual calendar, and travel time but the entry-level options would naturally be the simpler time and date versions.
The current production time/date Aquanaut with a rubber strap and 40.8mm steel case is the reference 5167A-001, which retails for $24,250. However, given the market demand for this particular model, these are more expensive on the secondary market. Prices start at $47,000 and can easily reach over $70,000. An entry-level alternative would be the Aquanaut ref. 5066A, which is an older model with a smaller 36mm case. The starting prices of these Patek Philippe Aquanaut watches are around $35,000. Good news for the ladies: prices for the women’s quartz Aquanaut models, such as the ref. 4960A, start below $20,000.
All The Right Angles: Patek Philippe Vintage Square Models
How about an entry-level gold Patek Philippe watch priced below $10,000? Yes, they do indeed exist if you’re willing to explore an often-overlooked corner of Patek’s archives. Namely, vintage Patek models with square and rectangular cases.
For example, the Patek Philippe ref. 2433 (from the 1950s) features a square case (available in yellow, pink, and white gold), a manual winding movement, and a time-only dial with a running seconds indicator. There’s also the similarly shaped Patek Philippe ref. 2488 CarrĂ©-Tortue” (French for squared turtle) but with a thicker crystal and fancier lugs.
For less than $10,000, these are interesting entry-level Patek options to consider if you’re into vintage Art Deco timepieces.
The Oddball: Neptune
Whereas the Nautilus and Aquanaut have become familiar names in watch enthusiast circles, the Neptune is often forgotten. Named after the Roman god of the sea, the Neptune was another water-inspired sports watch by Patek Philippe, launched in 1996 and discontinued around the mid-2000s. One of the defining characteristics of the Patek Neptune watch is the bold link bracelet fashioned to look like scales.
Although the manufacturing run of the Neptune was short, Patek did make a few different models for men and women. The two options that’d be your best bet as entry-level Patek Philippe watches would be the Neptune ref. 5080 and ref. 5085. The Neptune 5080 is the time and date variant with a 36.5mm case topped with an engine-turned bezel. It’s available in steel and two-tone steel and gold, and there are black, white, and salmon-colored dials to choose from. Prices for Patek Neptune 5080 typically start from $15,000.
Believe it or not, the Neptune ref. 5085, launched in 1998, was the first Patek Philippe complicated watch with a steel case to join the brand’s catalog (earlier steel complications were either unique pieces or special orders). The black dial combines moon phases, date, power reserve, and running seconds positioned at 4 o’clock. Prices for the Patek Neptune 5085 typically start from $25,000.
Finding Affordable Patek Philippe Watches
With some patience and an open mind, it is possible to find entry-level Patek Philippe watches. Exploring the options beyond the famous references will unveil some surprising gems.
As always, the best place to start is to begin browsing the grey market, which offers plenty of discontinued, vintage, and less popular Patek Philippe models that can be picked up at great prices.
More on Entry-Level Luxury Watches:
The Best Entry-Level Luxury Watches
5 Entry-Level A. Lange & Söhne Watches
Entry-Level Omega Watch Models – The Best of the Bunch
The Best Entry-Level Vacheron Constantin Watches
The Best Entry-Level Blancpain Watches
The Best Entry Level Cartier Watches
What is the Best Entry-Level Rolex?
